SPECTACULAR SCOTLAND
I spent the last week in June in northern
Scotland playing four wonderful courses. I highly recommend
that part of the world because (1) the golf is great and
less expensive than in the Edinburgh and Glasgow areas;
(2) the Scots are wonderful. I had given them a bad rap
(dour, not terribly friendly) for years. Mea culpa; and
(3) the food is surprisingly good. In order of preference,
here are my course reviews.
Royal Dornoch
Royal
Dornoch, designed by Old Tom Morris, is where Donald Ross
learned his craft as greens keeper before starting his
design career in the US. It is fabulous (now #3 on my Top
20 list, after Pebble Beach and Royal County Down). The
views are wonderful, the green complexes are all elevated
(and quite challenging), and there is a great mixture of
holes. For instance, #1 is only 307 yards, while the brutish
18th stretches to 456 yards; the four challenging par 3s
are all between 145 and 180 yards but play as if they were
much longer/shorter, depending on the wind; and the signature
14th (shown at left) has no bunkers, but plenty of trouble.
The course is remote -- an hour north of Inverness – but
well worth the drive. As a matter of fact, if you go, you
should play it twice!
Castle Stuart
Castle
Stuart is a brand new (2009) course just south of Inverness
on the Moray Firth which compares favorably with Tralee
in terms of water views. The web site describes it as “a
visual experience unlike any other in golf.” I marked 10
holes on my scorecard as having eye-popping vistas. The
11th green (below) is a good example The course is well-suited
for Americans – wide fairways, with most of the trouble
around the greens; two 9-hole loops -- with a stop for
a hot dog (not exactly ball-park franks, but not bad) at
the turn; a fabulous locker room; and Coors Light in the
bar. The owner (from California) plans to build ten cottages
this winter, more housing in the next two years, and ultimately
a second course along another stretch of shoreline.
Cruden Bay
Cruden Bay (about 40 minutes from Aberdeen)
is a visually intimidating links set amid massive dunes.
We played twice in a three-club wind (but from different
directions each day). The view of the Bay from the 8th
green (at left), 9th hole, and 10th tee is absolutely spectacular.
Most of the holes are wonderfully designed, although I
really disliked the 14th and 15th holes -- “goofy” golf
with totally blind shots. We stayed at the Undy Arms, a
3* hotel about 15 minutes away in Newburgh. It recently
was purchased by a local couple, who already have upgraded
the restaurant significantly (we had fresh salmon one night
and lobster the next). They are working diligently on the
rooms and public areas, which still need improvement. I
am hopeful that it soon will be my hotel of choice for
this area.
Nairn
Nairn (30 minutes from Inverness), is
great fun. All but three of the holes run parallel to one
another right along the water. The greens are small and
quick, which makes for challenging golf in the normally
daunting wind conditions.
You can play many of these courses in
a week, but it will involve a fair amount of driving (ten
days is better). Fly to Aberdeen, stay in town or Newburgh
and play Cruden Bay, Royal Aberdeen, Murcar, Moray, and
in two years, Trump International -- where they broke ground
the day I left Scotland (and which The Donald proclaims,
will host a British Open; let’s see what the R&A sys
about that….). Continue north about 2 hours to Castle Stuart,
from which you can play Nairn and Royal Dornoch (and Tain
and Brora, if you wish).
The Sagamore
I recently stayed at this lovely resort
on Lake George about 90 minutes from the Albany airport
and 45 minutes north of Saratoga Springs. (where the racing
season starts at the end of July). The golf was delightful
(a fun layout by my man Donald Ross), the rooms were spacious,
and the food was good (but expensive). Weekends are very
crowded…
Solehim Cup
The biennial match between the US and Europe’s top professional women golfers is set for September 23-25, 2011 at Killeen Castle, just outside of Dublin. I recommend two packages which include Match tickets, accommodations with daily breakfast, three rounds of golf, and transfers between your hotel and Killen Castle. For $1,630, enjoy 7 nights at the Marriott Ashbourne in County Meath; golf at Castlerock, Royal Dublin, and Royal Tara; and tickets for Thursday – Sunday (includes practice round and opening ceremonies). The $2,899 deluxe version includes 6 nights at the Four Seasons in Dublin; golf at Royal Dublin, The Island, and County Louth (one of my favorites); and tickets for Friday-Sunday.